On the 18th
September, Scotland held its long-awaited, historic independence referendum.
Don’t
worry, this isn’t going to be a political entry (There’s plenty of that over on
my new politics blog), but it’s necessary for contextualizing today’s anecdote.
So, as I
was saying: referendum. As you more than likely know, Scotland voted No to
independence, with a 55%-45% divide. I was a Yes voter, and needless to say the
No vote gave me more than a wee bit o’ the glaikit stare, och aye, it wasnae
nice, nae it wasnae.
With my
glaikit stare (emphasised by the fact we’d stayed up all night roaming the city
and watching the TV coverage) the most prominent feature of my face throughout
the day on the 19th September, I escorted my visiting, equally
glaikit-staring friend to Edinburgh’s Waverley Station and waved him goodbye
with a glaikit hand.
On my way
back, I decided to go on a detour around a dark and foggy Edinburgh. My route
took me past Bute House, the official residence of the first minister, where
earlier just that day Alex Salmond had announced his resignation.
I sighed
and moved on.
Heading
down the dark, winding King’s Stables Road towards Grassmarket, away in a
dismal wee dream, I noticed a nervously shuffling figure shimmy out of the dim
mist. He seemed to be muttering panicked French curses in an alarming way.
As I made
to shift past the distressed young Frenchman, he suddenly seemed to notice me
and hurried over.
“Excuseh
me, sir.” He muttered.
“Yes?” I
muttered back glaikitly.
“I, eh,
seem to be, eh… unable to find my way.”
“You’re
lost?”
“Yes.”
“Ah.”
“Where is,
eh… le Haymarket?”
“Haymarket?
Like the train station? Are you sure you don’t mean Grassmarket?”
“Yes, I am looking
for Haymarket.”
“Ah.”
I felt a
pang of sympathy for the young Frenchman at this point because he was
absolutely nowhere near Haymarket.
“Do you
know where it is?” He asked, despair dripping from his voice and putting my own
dull mood to shame.
“Yes, it’s,
uh…” I gestured in the rough direction of Haymarket, knowing that if he
followed where I was pointing he could just as easily end up wandering straight
past it and on for hours to the Forth bridges, Fife or Perth.
“Maybe we
should look it up on a map. Do you have a pho-?”
He wrenched
a massive phone-shaped brick from his pocket at this point and chuckled. “I am
French. Our mobiles are, uh, quite shit.”
“Ah. I’ll
use mine then.”
So I took
out my phone and started searching for where the young Frenchman was wanting to
go. It turned out he was meant to be meeting a group of friends at a fancy restaurant
on Dalry Road and had somehow lost his way quite spectacularly.
The only
problem was that the route he would have to take was quite winding, especially
for a visitor unused to the labyrinthine streets of Edinburgh.
“Do you
think you’ll be able to find your way here?” I asked, pointing to his end
destination.
“Yeees?” He
replied, hesitantly.
I knew at
that moment if I let him go on his way he’d end up going so far off course he’d
probably end up wandering through the night until he fell into Loch Tay.
“Okay, let’s
write out the directions.” I said, taking out my notebook and pen.
The look of
surprise on people’s faces when you spontaneously pull out a notebook and pen is
priceless.
I turned to
lean on the wall, but it was damp, mossy and, I kid you not, covered in snails.
“Oh look, snails,” I commented.
“I love
snails!” The young Frenchman laughed.
It’s okay
to laugh at stereotypes if the subject of the stereotype makes the joke, right?
Right!?
Leaning on
my knee instead of the mossy wall, I started to write. “So it’s a left up here
onto Lothian Road…” Scribble scribble. “A right onto West Approach Road…”
Scribble scribble. “Then you head up to the A8…” Scribble scribble. “And turn
left onto Dalry Road. Easy!” I decided not to embarrass us both by using the
words ‘Gauche’ and ‘Droit’, as tempted as I was to unleash my poor high school
French.
He was
delighted when I handed him the sheet of paper, and the relief on his face was
apparent. “Sank you – sank you!” He reached out his hand and for a moment I
thought he was wanted to shake mine, but instead he dropped a £2 coin into the
palm of my hand. “For your service.”
I tried to
return it, but he insisted. “For your service, my friend!” He said, and
scurried off into the night.
Now I’m not
saying that money is what makes me happy, or that my friendship comes at a
monetary cost, but the gesture was so kind that I immediately felt much better
with the world than I had before. The fact that there is kindness and that
there are interesting characters everywhere gave me a boost.
I spent the
coin on a cheap baguette in the Grassmarket in honour of my briefly
encountered friend, and ate it smiling on the way back to my flat. As always,
when there seems to be a lot of despair in the world, faint glimmers of hope
start shining through. One of mine just happened to be an ill-equipped
Frenchman with a poor sense of direction.



